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Amazon.com Review
From the 1920s to the 1950s, the race was on in Europe to score first ascents of the most formidable routes in the Alps and Dolomites. Buoyed by the advent of artificial climbing techniques (primarily the use of pitons), teams from France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Poland scaled the north faces of the Eiger, the Drus, the Matterhorn, the Grandes Jorasses, and other hallowed peaks, often pooling resources to obtain previously unimaginable success (and often tragedy), while the world below was ravaged by two brutal world wars. Noted French climbing guide Gaston Rébuffat lived at the center of this crucial era in mountaineering history. Starlight and Storm, first published in French in 1954 as Étoiles et Tempêtes, is his personal account of a rugged and glorious time before Gore-Tex, when men, soaked and chilled to the bone, sang to keep each other from falling asleep (forever) during exposed bivouacs in sub-zero degree snowstorms. Rébuffat's love of the climber's life is evident with each turn of the page. Where contemporary authors like Jon Krakauer, who provides this reissue's foreword, describe climbing in terms of nightmares and inner struggles, Rébuffat moves from one harrowing ascent to the next with uncommon gaiety and charm. "We have the instinct for it, the love of rocks and the necessary skill," he writes of time spent on the Drus, "so that we can climb without being worried by technical problems. Thus the whole climb was pure joy, for, while superficially watching over the actual ascent, the spirit had leisure to wander happily." The mysterious joy and lure of traversing earth's high places are expressed with a boyish innocence lost on much of today's climbing culture, making Starlight and Storm an enjoyable read, probably unlike any mountaineering journal you have ever encountered. --Kristopher Kaiyala
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From Library Journal
The Modern Library is going straight to the top to launch its new "Exploration" series with this volume by R?buffat, a legendary mountaineering guide. Published in the 1950s, this recounts his numerous adventures scaling nature's greatest heights of ice and rock. Though you could get a nosebleed just reading this book, R?buffat allows the reader to experience adventures they otherwise could only dream about. Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Product details
Series: Modern Library Exploration
Paperback: 272 pages
Publisher: Modern Library; Revised edition (September 7, 1999)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0375755063
ISBN-13: 978-0375755064
Product Dimensions:
5.6 x 0.6 x 8.5 inches
Shipping Weight: 11.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.4 out of 5 stars
10 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#94,159 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Lyrically written, the author, Gaston Rebuffat, one of the world's climbing greats, expresses such joy for mountaineering that it is infectious. No climbing enthusiast's library should be without this book. The photograph of Rebuffat which graces the cover of this book is alone worth the price of the book.Rebuffat is positively poetic in his description of various climbs. The reader almost feels as if one were as one with the mountain. A purist, the author climbed not for the glory of it, but for the sheer joy of the brotherhood of the rope. In these days, where climbing is often just a reason for a media event, the author's approach is refreshing, indeed.
item as described
Awesome mountaineering history.
Was a little water stained, but the vendor had already identified that, so I knew this before I ordered it.This book is worth the read.
Gaston tells a great mountain tale in an inspirational and poetic way! I found this book to be very inspirational!
"Starlight and Storm" is one of these rare examples of an outstanding climber who can also write engagingly and with poetic verve!Rebuffat is unquestionably one of the outstanding climbers of the early post WW II mountaineering in Europe and perhaps the most outstanding French climber of the period. His achievements (first French climb of the Walker Spur of the Grand Jorasses; first French Climb of the north face of Eiger, member of the Anapurna expedition) speak for themselves.What also sets apart Rebuffat from many others (many climbers write books to underwrite financially their future expeditions or to underscore their achievements) is his joyful, honest and inspired writing. Rebuffat has a real talent to convey beautifully his emotions and leads us masterfully along his fascinating climbs.This book is highly recommended for anyone interested in mountaineering, and I commend John Krakauer for including it in the new "Exploration" series!
This edition has David Roberts' insightful introduction, which explains Rebuffat's gifts to mountaineering almost as well as the text itself.
Gaston was one of the worlds best Alpine climber. One of the few to climb all 8 major North Faces in the Alps. He doesn't dwell on the technical aspects of climbing. His other book, ON SNOW AND ROCK deals with climbing techniques, but this book focuses on the story of the climb. One can sense his resolve and melding of his self with the mountain. It was an inspiring book for me. Unlike some reviewers I never fully mastered my fear of heights, and quit after a number of years. But those climbs I did do were in part inspired by wanting to emulate this great climber.Highly recommended for "arm chair mountaineers."
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